2020: A YEAR IN REVIEW
How does one wrap up 2020? This year has proven historic on many fronts.
With an ongoing pandemic and struggles of injustice, the start of a "new year" is seemingly the only hope many of us have left. With that said, it's also important to acknowledge the incredible milestones and inspired actions that resulted from the waves of these unprecedented times. The climbing community continues to make efforts. From commendable DEI efforts to extraordinary ascents, we've adapted and made 2020 count. Read on for our highlight reel of the climbing world and wrap up from The Cliffs.
CLIMBERS MAKE A DIFFERENCE
Ashima Shirashi poses with exclusive Dead Zenist shoe. Photo via Ashima Shiraishi Instagram
Dead Zenist shoe. Photo via Ashima Shiraishi Instagram
Ashima Shirashi boulders with Dead Zenist shoe. Photo via Ashima Shiraishi Instagram
Evolv Sports, a climbing + bouldering gear shop based in California, donates over $50,000 to grassroots DEI organizations* in collaboration with professional American climber Ashima Shiraishi + LA fashion brand Brain Dead in pre-sale purchases of the exclusive Dead Zenist shoe.
*DEI Organizations:
Adaptive Climbing Group is a non-profit that provides a safe place for people with disabilities to explore indoor and outdoor rock climbing and support each other.
Brown Girls Climbing is a climbing + adventure-centered leadership development program aimed to promote wellness and outdoor recreation for girls of color.
OWNYOUR Media is a BIPOC-owned media company specializing in digital outdoor and adventure film festivals.
Long Beach Rising is a bouldering climbing gym that has programs that encourage disadvantaged youth into climbing.
Young Women Who Crush (YWWC) is a youth program of The Cliffs, is a climbing and leadership development program that provides opportunities for NYC high school girls to experience the physical, mental, and emotional benefits of rock climbing.
Kai Lightner sits down and talks with young climber at Memphis Rox Climbing. Photo: Malik the Martian via Climbing for Change
In July 2020, professional American climber Kai Lightner founded Climbing for Change, a non-profit that facilitates diversity in the climbing industry and promotes equal access to outdoor adventures.
Climbing for Change aims to make rock climbing and the outdoor industry more inclusive through funding opportunities on individual and organizational levels.
YWWC participant, Marjana Tafader, climbing at Peter’s Kill, Minnewaska State Park in June 2018. Photo: Chris Vultaggio
One of the most notable conservation legal victories of this year is the passing of The Great American Outdoors Act, a bill that establishes the "National Parks and Public Land Legacy Restoration Fund to support deferred maintenance projects on federal lands. In July, Congress passed following the President’s approval into law in August.
“This victory proves once again that climbers and other outdoor enthusiasts can go to Washington, D.C. and win,” says Chris Winter, Executive Director of Access Fund.
This is a significant win. According to Access Fund, public lands account for over 50% of climbing in this country and our efforts to protect them determines the future of the sport.
Antlion crag is on the ancestral lands of Munsee Lenape. Photo: Chris Magee via GCC
Just last month, the Gunks Climbers Coalition (GCC) and the Access Fund bought a new section of a cliff line in the Shawangunk (Gunks) Mountains in November! According to the GCC Press Release, this new section includes “1,000 feet of the Millbrook Mountain cliff line, including the historic Antlion Crag, […] offering offering a uniquely remote experience that boasts traditional climbing, top roping, overhangs, vertical faces, and even a little crack climbing—ranging from 5.5 to 5.13.”
GCC will inform climbers when the parking and trail system are open for public access, which are expected to be completed by Fall 2021.
FEATS IN CLIMBING
Professional German rock climber, Alex Megos, redpoints his multi-year project “Bibliographie” (9c/5.15d) in Céüse, France. To put it into perspective, there is only one other route of this grade —Adam Ondra’s ascent of “Silence” in 2017.
In his announcement on Instagram, Megos writes “[a]fter clipping the anchor it seemed like all of the days of work I have put into the route were passing in front of my eyes. With approximately 60 climbing days over the past three years ‘Bibliographie’ has been by far my longest project to date.”
Watch his story: Rotpunkt: Bibliographie | Alex Megos climbs his hardest project yet of Patagonia films.
Emily Harrington free climbs El Capitan “ on “Golden Gate.” Photo via Emily Harrington Instagram
Photo via Emily Harrington Instagram
Professional American rock climber, Emily Harrington, achieves the free ascent of El Capitan’s “Golden Gate” in under 24 hours, making Harrington the fourth woman to free climb El Capitan in a day. The first is legendary climber Lynn Hill, who became the first person to free climb “The Nose” in under 24 hours back in ‘94. Subsequently, professional climbers Steph Davis and Mayan Smith-Gobat free climbed “Free Rider” in a day.
In Emily’s Instagram announcement she wrote, “I never believed I could actually free climb El Cap in a day when I first set the goal for myself. It didn’t seem like a realistic objective for me. I didn’t have the skills, fitness, or risk profile to move so quickly over such a large piece of stone. But I chose it exactly for that reason. Impossible dreams challenge us to rise above who we are now to see if we can become better versions of ourselves.”
Needless to say, #inspired.
SOMETHING TO LOOK FORWARD TO
Earlier this year, the Tokyo 2020 Committee announced the postponement of the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020 to 2021. The official dates for next year’s Olympic Games will be held from July 23 – August 8, 2021. And the Paralympic Games will be from August 24 to September 5, 2021.
Get excited because Sport Climbing will finally make it’s debut in the Olympics!
THE CLIFFS: WRAP UP
Men’s first place winner, Brian Squire at Feats of Strength. Photo: Jesse Reiter
Women’s first place winner, Olivia Ma at The Gotham Citizen. Photo: Lorraine Ciccarelli
Every year, we host two of East Coast’s legendary bouldering competitions: The Feats of Strength and The Gotham Citizen. Hats off to our participants, spectators, staff and sponsors for their support this year! As always, we couldn’t have done it without you. Check out the results below.
OPEN FINALS
Feats of Strength
Women
1st: Olivia Ma
2nd: Megan Lynch
3rd: Ariana Mathews
Men
1st: Brian Squire
2nd: Adam Shahar
3rd: Jacob Shierman
The Gotham Citizen
Women
1st: Olivia Ma
2nd: Megan Lynch
3rd: Norah Chi
Men
1st: Brian Squire
2nd: Ray Hansen
3rd: Noah Wheeler
During our temporary closure, with quarantine in full steam, everyone was at home without anywhere to go. We knew it was only a matter of time before cabin fever would take hold. And so, The Cliffs at Home was created, a one-stop-shop resource for training, fitness + more! Thousands of viewers watched our daily “quarantraining” videos from our top-tier instructors, right from their homes.
Youth climber bouldering at The Cliffs at Callowhill. Photo: Debbie Larsen
Youth climber top roping at The Cliffs at Callowhill. Photo: Debbie Larsen
In addition, thanks to the generous support of Philadelphia-based organization, SpiritsUp!, The Cliffs at Callowhill was able to offer five full-ride scholarships towards a week of the seasonal climbing camp to POC youth climbers. Scholarship funds were provided equally from Spirits Up! and The Cliffs.
The Cliffs Outdoors participant at the Gunks, NY.
The Cliffs Outdoors participant at Birdsboro, PA. Photo: Chanton Phan
Volunteer helping with trail project at the Gunks, NY.
The Cliffs Outdoors guided climbers outside to learn, explore and climb in New York and Philadelphia. All classes and trips take place at the crag and are taught by AMGA-certified single pitch instructors or certified rock guides.
In addition, The Cliffs Outdoors hosted volunteer events in conjunction with The Mohonk Preserve during the Fall. Participants helped with trail projects and litter clean ups followed by climbing at the Shawangunk Mountains, more commonly known as the Gunks.